Wednesday, May 19 -- Day 12 -- EPHESUS

May 19 is Youth Day in Turkey as well as Ataturk Commemoration Day. On our bus ride this morning we saw flag-bearing young people dressed in red and white, probably headed for the stadium. We admired the beautiful Aegean with Samos visible in the distance. Meli told us that Kusadasi’s biggest industry is tourism; everyone here makes his living that way. This morning there were several cruise ships in the harbor. We saw the small Island of the Birds, which is now connected to the mainland but in earlier times was a fortress to provide protection from pirates. On our way to Selcuk. we saw a dome of a 1372 Turkish bath and the Temple of the Mother Goddess Artemis (one of the seven wonders of the world). The only thing left of the Temple is a pillar, which today provided a nesting place for a stork. We all chuckled at Meli’s story about a tour she led of women "witches" who wanted to go to the Ephesus site of the Amazons.

We stopped at the Mosque of Isabey (1375). Its courtyard is lined with columns with a fountain in the middle. While we were having our "Turkey Talk," the Imam did his ritual washing in the fountain. There were gravestones with calligraphy along the wall; some had turbans with roses carved into the marble. Inside the mosque are pillars from the Temple of Artemis (four topped with Arabic and one with a capital from Ephesus). There is a geometric design over the Mihrab and colorful Turkish carpets on the floor.

In the quiet courtyard of the mosque, Meli gave us an introduction to Ephesus. One theory is that it was first established in 5,000 B.C. by the Amazons. Some of the ancient cities were entirely matriarchal. Anything that seemed unnatural was worshipped. A meteor fell, which was thought to be a sacred reflection from heaven, and the orchard where it landed became a religious site. The legend of Androklos tells how the Oracle at Delphi said that a fish, a fire, and a boar would show the location for the city.

In 1200 B.C. others came to this area. It became a political settlement—the city-state of Ionia. It took 100 years for the Temple of Artemis to be completed. The people believed that the Mother Goddess was living in the Temple and protected it. People brought their valuables to the Temple; it became like a bank as well as a place of worship.

In 547 B.C. there was conflict with the Persians. So as not to neglect Artemis, the Ephesians convinced the other cities in the area that they would do the worshipping and leave the fighting to the others. Anatolia entered the Dark Ages. The Temple was burned; the marble became like a pile of limestone. Chaos lasted for seventeen years. The brains thought that their Mother Goddess was away helping Alexander the Great, who later told the Ephesians that he would restore the temple and also build a city. The new city is the third Ephesus (the one we will visit). For 900 years the Ephesians lived here. St. Paul, St. John , the Virgin Mary and various emperors visited this Ephesus, which was important in the Roman Empire. The population was 250,000 for more than two centuries. In the sixth century A.D., a malaria outbreak forced evacuation of the city. In the 7^th century the Arabs invaded and a wall was built. From the llth century the Turks and the Christians lived peaceably together. Selcuk was established as the fifth city of Ephesus. In 1922, the Christians were driven out and replaced by Muslims.

From the mosque we went to the museum where we saw statues of hygiene and health, medical utensils, a puzzle ring, household cult objects, toys and musical instruments. Meli told us it was common for three generations to live in one house. One might see a picture of Socrates or other philosopher on the wall. There are statues here from the fountains of Ephesus as well as a statue of Aphrodite and wonderful terracotta figurines. We saw different styles of burial, showing how people overcame their fear of darkness. The statue of Artemis is awesome with its zodiac necklace, very straight posture, lions on her shoulders and bracelet, and breasts or bulls’ testicles—take your pick!

After lunch Miten drove us up a mountain to what is thought to be the last place where the Virgin Mary lived. The house is now a small chapel; its nave is lined with candles placed in sand with crosses in the windows. Meli told us that "this is a house of peace—where beauty is, God is there." There are fountains with healing water from springs and tissue votives (offerings) lining a wall opposite a "gum tree." Paul was here twice.

Ephesus is an incredible, magical place! We got our first glimpse of the city wall as we descended the mountain from the Virgin Mary’s house. During the third to fourth century B.C., Alexander ordered a new city to be built that went beyond the hills into the valley close to the sea (now that part of the sea has silted in). There was no fresh water so five aqueducts and a reservoir were built as well as a plumbing system. In the upper state agora important events were held. There was a temple in the center with colonnaded galleries on the sides. We saw a backgammon board carved into the marble. How interesting that this popular game was played even back then.

Ephesus was one of twelve Ionic cities, but later became a Roman city. In the theatre Meli mentioned that there was no drainage so that it must have had a roof and windows. Symmetry was important to these ancient peoples. Meli encouraged us to use our imaginations. She pointed out the lion paws on the steps (symbols of aristocracy). As we walked down the marble street lined with pillars, she showed us iron rings that were used for portable torches. This road predates the time Paul was here. The Bible tells of his "several seasons’" stay here." Walking down this road, we saw pillars with symbols of pharmacy (a mortar and pestle) and medicine (a snake entwined around a table leg).

The road led us down to the largest square of the city, Domitian Square. Its floor is paved in marble. It has a temple (81-93 AD) with a colonnaded wall and giant size statue of Domitian, a Roman Emperor who thought he was the greatest and who was assassinated by one of his servants. The temple was later used as a quarry. There is lots of beautiful artwork on the stone.. There was a hospital in one corner of the square and on the opposite end the arched Pollio fountain. As we sat there, we could hear goat bells somewhere in the nearby countryside This was the entrance to the state part of the city. Meli again had us imagine the Aegean Sea, which in those days was close by, with white caps ("little lambs") and a feeling of harmony with the sky, sea, and city.

The Gate of Hercules led us into the "pedestrian precinct." Two thousand years ago there would have been shops lining the road. As we walked down the road, we saw a white mulberry tree growing alongside and mosaics in the walkway and houses. There was the temple and gate of Hadrian (Roman Emperor) with fabulous artwork. Most of us sat on the holes in the very public toilets (25 still there); it dates from the 2^nd century and had constantly running water.

There would have been musicians playing in one corner "to compete with the sounds of forty-eight people using the toilet at the same time." It apparently was a very social place as well (shades of the Turkish bath).

The impressive library was one of the three most important libraries in ancient times.

The other two were in Pergemum and Alexandria. The statutes of four women at the front represent the virtues of knowledge, friendship, understanding and wisdom. The library faced a brothel, which we saw advertised on a stone in the road. Also along this road we saw a block with a depiction of a gladiator facing a feather that represents a pen: "The pen is mightier than the sword."

Further on down the Marble Road, we reached the theatre, built in the second century B.C. We all took seats and Meli went down to the orchestra to talk to us. In 52 A.D. 24,000 people were gathered to hear Paul. Demetrius came and raised objections to Paul’s visit and message. As a result, Paul was forced to leave and wrote a letter to the Ephesians instead. There are now concerts held here.

Ephesus was a major city of its time. City planning obviously took place. The excavation of Ephesus is the largest archeological excavation site on earth. Today we saw only a third of what has been excavated. Meli told us that there are 24 more streets here. Recent excavation has revealed an agora, and a stadium is currently being excavated. Looking across to a hill, we could see where Paul was imprisoned. We looked down another colonnaded street which used to be the harbor street that led to the sea. We imagined promenading down this street lighted by twinkling torches and feeling the sea breeze.

Visiting Ephesus today with Meli as our teacher and guide was an unforgettable experience and reinforced the theme of this tour—understanding the synthesis (layers) of culture and the influence of different cultures.

On our return bus trip to Kusadasi, Harlene presented candy to our bus driver, Miten, who responded, "May your worst day be better than today." Back at the hotel, we congregated by the pool for a happy hour and then went inside for our farewell dinner. Everyone lighted candles in honor of Meli’s 50^th birthday, and Harlene presented her a gift of jewelry from the group. Mele signed books for all who purchased her "Ephesus" book. After dinner at our last meeting and "Meli talk," she told us about the Turkish flag. The crescent symbolizes the culture, ethics, and religion of Turkey. The single star represents the Republic. She and Grant presented flag cards to everyone along with individual awards written on the back (a Back Door tradition) and mini gloves to remind us of all the times she used her hand to represent the map of Turkey. Grant was presented with a backgammon board for being our assistant guide so that he can practice up to become competitive with Meli! Harlene and Jenny and Glenn recited original poems, and the evening ended with singing. It was a happy finale to a wonderful tour!

Ida Gay Nicolino